Climb the unclimbed, join THE Virgin Summits Expedition!
In 1996 EWP organised its first expedition to the Muzkol - a remote and little explored area of the South Eastern Pamir where most of the mountains, including several six thousand meter peaks were still unclimbed. The 1996 expedition accessed the area over a 5100m pass - in spite of this major logistical obstacle the expedition was a success and 6 previously virgin summits were ascended.
This year a group of 7 climbers from the UK together with 7 Russians (guides, climbers and support staff) visited the area again. Base camp was established at 3780m near a remote track at the west edge of the range. Initially several side valleys were explored then an advance base camp was established at 4300m on a grassy moraine ridge by a lake that rapidly decreased in size soon after its discovery. "Vanishing Lake Camp" was used as a base for the following two ascents:
Salters Peak, 5560m, was climbed on 12 August by Peter Boursnell, Mark Dancey, Chris Mockett, Dominic Reid,Suzanne Reid, Colin Sprange and Andrew Wielochowski. Easy snow and ice slopes led to a short scree and snow ridge to the summit. The ascent took 4 hours from a bivvy at 4650m and was graded 2a (Russian) or II UIAA.
Muzkolski, 5895m, was climbed on 15 August by Boursnell, Dancey, Andrei Paschin, D. Reid, Sergei Semiletkin and Wielochowski. The icy NE ridge was followed to a gendarme from where a traverse across scree and snow led to the SE ridge. This was climbed up easy snow slopes to the summit. The ascent took 5 hours from a bivvy at Salters Pass (5180m), grade 3a or III. This was probably also the first ascent of Salters Pass which was glaciated to the NW and easy scree to the SW. Grade 2a (crampons and ice axe required).
During this same period Sasha Bolotov, Igor Gavrilov and Valera Morozov
walked up the Zartoshkol valley to the glaciated SE slopes of
North Muzkol, 6129m. The route up this summit
had been identified by the 1996 expedition. From a camp at 5100m Gavrilov
climbed the centre of the snowfield to the summit on 12 August. Bolotov
repeated the ascent the following day taking an easier line closer to the
E ridge. The easiest line was graded 3a or II.
After a rest day at base camp two elegant summits facing the base camp were climbed:
On 19 August Sprange and Paschin ascended Panorama, 5929m, by the west face starting from a bivvy at 4800m. Steep scree then a snow field and ridge led to the summit in 6 hours. Grade 3a or II.
Fay's Peak, 6115m, was climbed on 20 August by Bolotov, Gavrilov, Semiletkin and Wielochowski who ascended the steep and icy west face of to reach the NW ridge which was followed over several steepenings to the summit. The ascent of the face took 4 hours starting from its base at 5400m which was reached easily by a glacier from a bivvy at 5100m. The lower sections involved about 300m of 45 degree snow and ice. Grade 5a or V- .
On 20 August: Edward Kapitsa set off from base camp and after a bivvy at circa 4800m ascended easy snowy slopes to reach the summit of Odinakaya, 5687m from the west. Grade 1b or I.
The weather throughout the expedition was perfect and on many days the visibility exceptionally good with most of the Pamirs being clear. This is fairly normal for the Muzkol which is located in a high altitude, semi desert area.
Base Camp was located near a flood plain of the Zartoshkol, during the summer this area is covered with rich grass and it attracts a wide variety of animals and birds. Although the base camp area was uninhabited, 10km up the road towards Karakol was a kishlak, a summer settlement composed of felt yurts. The local Kirgyz nomads were very friendly and their fresh bread, yoghourt and cheese was a welcome addition to our menu.
Salters Peak was named after the London Salters Company whose emblems are two snow leopards. Panorama, after the splendid and uninterrupted view of the main Pamir peaks: Revolution, Communism, Korzhenevskoi and Lenin. Fay after my wife and Odinakaya after the solitary nature of this north-western outlier.
The drive from Osh to Murgab though long is spectacular, the road crosses several very high passes offering superb panoramas of the Pamir before following the shores of Lake Karakul in a near-lunar landscape. This route acquired a degree of notoriety in 1996 as an important drug route from Afghanistan to Central Asia. In 1996 controls and checks were very strict, in 1997 the atmosphere was much more relaxed and the 340km journey to and from base camp was hardly affected at all by border controls and checkpoints. We were once asked to unload the vehicle to check all the equipment - this proved to be a pleasant one hour stop. As our equipment was being checked by the border guards we boiled up some tea, opened up our camp tables and stools and had a sit down lunch. The KGB are not what they used to be!
High Tatra & Prague 15 days GBP1095 Departures: 20/6, 22/8, 12/9. Romanian Carpathians 15 day GBP 795 Departs: 4/7, 25/7, 8/8. Elbrus Ascent 15 days GBP 1295 Departs: 11/7, 25/7, 8/ 8, 22/8. Fann Mts, Bukhara & Samarkand GBP 1255 16 days. Departs 18/7, 1/8, 15/8. Tien Shan - Celestial Mtns. GBP 1225 15days. Departures: 10/7 & 24/7. Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro GBP 1895 17 days. Departs: 26/6, 21/8, 11/9 & 18/12 of '98. 5/2 of '99. Mt Meru, Kili & Ngorongoro GBP 2050 17 day Departs: 24/7, 18/12 of '98. 12/2 of '99 Rwenzori & QE Park 17 day GBP 1895. Departs: 24/7 & 18/12 of '98. 29/1 of '99.
PEAK
LENIN BY KOMAN SU Reputedly the world's easiest 7000m peak. Instead
of the normal Achik Tash route we hope to ascend the mountain by the little
visited Koman Su route. This will provide the ascent with a real expedition
feeling - technically of a similar standard to the normal route.
22 days GBP 1995. Depart: 1/8
Romania
FAGARAS, the TRANSYLVANIAN ALPS 
One of the
longest, continuous high level walks in Europe that is readily accessible
to the strong walker. Long days on magnificent wild mountain ridges are
combined with visits to monasteries and historic castles.
15 days GBP 810. Departure: 25/7.
GEORGIA
- CAUCASUS The Georgian Caucasus provide some of the best walking
scenery in the Caucasus. Dramatic gorges, flower-rich alpine meadows,
magnificent
mountains and ancient villages, monasteries and churches coupled with excellent
food. The trek is porter-supported, just basic personal equipment need
be carried. Prague extension available.
Fly London - Prague - Tiblisi.
16 days GBP 1225. Depart: 19/6 & 11/9.
Other destinations include:
Peak Communism, Heli-skiing, Aksu-Lailak and Bulgaria.
ELBRUS
REGION MAP-GUIDE
EWP published in June a 1:50,000 high quality, topographical map
of the Upper Baksan Valley including Elbrus. The map includes ski routes,
bivouac sites and has accurate contours at 50m intervals.
BUCEGI
MOUNTAINS MAP-GUIDE
EWP published in December a 1:53,000 high quality, topographical
map of the Bucegi Mountains of Romania. Text on the reverse side describes
the main walking routes. German and English versions were published.
Other map-guides cover:
East Africa: Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya, Rwenzori, Mount Elgon
Caucasus: various maps & guidebook
Central Asia: Pamir, Tien Shan, Fann Mountains
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