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The 1998 group comprised 3 American, 9 English, 2 Welsh and 3 Russian
climbers, together with a Russian cook, her son and a Russian doctor. Part
of the journey from Osh in Kirgizia to Muzkol follows the Chinese border
and it is also the main road leading to the sensitive Afghan border areas.
For these reasons there is a high degree of security along the route with
many checkpoints. Luckily this year one of the checkpoints was abolished
(at Kyzylart Pass, 4280m), also the group was not searched once. As a result
the journey in both directions went very smoothly. During the first few
days the whole group made the first ascent of "Four Nations Peak", 5501m.
A few of the group continued, to ascend two further points on the same
ridge. In the second half of the trip an advanced camp was established
at 5050m on the Zartosh Glacier. From here the group explored the beautiful
Zartosh glacier cirque. On the 21st August thirteen group members ascended
"Leopard's Tooth", 5520m, by it's elegant, snowy, north ridge. This unique
"island peak" is located in the heart of the cirque and it provided a fine
view of the main objective - the west summit of Zartosh - subsequently
named the White Pyramid (c6060m). Sixteen people made the first ascent
of this on the 23rd August by its snowy north ridge. All the summits mainly
involved climbing on snow and were generally non-technical. A few steep
snow slopes and occasional crevasses required us to rope up on the ascent
of the White Pyramid which we graded Alpine AD. Elbrus & the Caucasus.Detailed account
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Caucasus and
Elbrus
This summer we had four scheduled and six private groups in the Russian
Caucasus. The main attraction as usual being Mount Elbrus - the highest
summit of Europe. The weather was unusually good and as a result the glaciers
lost a lot of their fresh snow cover and many crevasses lower down were
uncovered. Mineralny Vody experienced temperatures of 40+ C (over 100 F)
for days on end. As a result of this good weather our first three major
scheduled trips achieved a record 95% success rate.
On the 16th August a group of climbers in the Priut 11 hut were cooking
on a stove that went out of control. They attempted to put it out, but
accidentally poured fuel onto it rather than water. Luckily nobody died
in the fire but the Priut, after 59 years of valiant service, was reduced
to a smouldering ruin. Those of you who have visited it will be sad to
hear that the toilet survived the inferno! Unfortunately, the last EWP
group encountered bad weather on Elbrus in early September as well as the
disadvantage of not having the Priut Hut. In all they made three summit
attempts. For their third try they took a snow cat as far as to Pastukhova
Rocks as they had to make it down in time to catch the last cable car that
day. After almost an hour in the snow cat they arrived at the rocks stiff
and unable to move - bitingly cold winds and deteriorating weather convinced
them that there are days when Elbrus is best left alone.
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Georgia
In the eastern Caucasus three EWP groups visited Khevsuretia and Tushetia
in Georgia, an area virtually never visited before by tourists, in a country
with almost no tourist infra-structure. The walking was in beautiful, unspoilt
country but proved tougher for some than they expected. One group in particular
encountered a variety of logistical problems. However the trip was successful
overall, especially since the flora at the time was at its best. We will
certainly run the programme in 1999 as the location is so magnificent and
we were able to learn a lot for our future trip plans. *
In 1999 this trek will be fully horse supported.
Romania
Over the last few years several EWP groups have ventured into the Romanian
Carpathians. All the trips have been very successful. This can be attributed
as much to Adi and Andrei, our two Romanian guides, as to the country itself.
Our last group to visit Romania was organised with Trail magazine, a Trail
host accompanying the trip. After a visit to Sinaia and the world famous
Peles castle they crossed the Bucegi and Piatra Crailui mountains and then
tackled one of Europe's longest high level ridge walks - the 80 km. main
ridge of the Fagaras which includes Moldoveanu - the highest summit in
Romania. This proved to be a tough walk in magnificent scenery. Cabanas
were used in the mountains apart from one night for which the group split
up between several houses in a small village in the mountains.
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Kenya and Tanzania
EWP was born in East Africa and our local experience has allowed us
to create some very exciting programs into the remote mountain and wilderness
areas. However by far the greatest numbers of visitors are attracted to
Kilimanjaro and we can now offer some very competitive and good quality
trips up the mountain. We are now planning to 'see-in' 2000 on the very
summit of Kili - get in touch with us quickly should you wish to be up
there with us!
Uganda
Laurent Kabila took office as head of state of the Congo in 1997 having
deposed the dictator Mobutu Sese Seko. Hopes that corruption could be reduced
and that some form of order would return were quickly dispersed. Eastern
Congo and the Rwenzori area remain unstable. Ugandan troops are attempting
unsuccessfully to re-establish order on the Ugandan side of the mountains
but so far have been unable to track down and disarm the groups of "rebels"
who are even now terrorising the Bakonjo communities living in the foothills.
We cannot, as a result, organise any groups into the Rwenzori at present,
nor can we recommend private individuals going there alone. On the eastern
side of the country private groups have visited Mount Elgon. Here all is
peaceful and the magnificent walking on dry paths and generally better
weather make this a good alternative to the Rwenzori.
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Western and
Central Pamir
Our treks in the western Pamir, into the colourful and sunny Fann mountains,
have as usual attracted many walkers who enjoy the good weather, their
light packs (mules do the hard work!) and the visits to Samarkand and Bukhara.
One group visited Peak Lenin which was plastered in snow and which, as
usual, lived up to its reputation of poor weather.
